The Bangladesh Traveller

Kuakata: the deep south

Posted on 24. Dec, 2007 by bmeggitt in Best of Bangladesh
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Bangladesh’s deep South is dappled by religious conservatism and indigenous unease. As one of Bangladesh’s rapidly growing tourist destinations, Kuakata offers a calm respite from Dhaka’s suffocating intensity, without the commercialisation of Cox’s Bazar.

Located 320km south of Dhaka and 70km south of Patuakhali, Kuakata is connected to the rest of the mainland by a series of river crossings. The dusty, laborious bus journey meanders through an increasingly rural landscape. Dilapidated buildings, exposed roots and millions of dollars worth of destroyed rice crops currently litter the roadside—consequences of Cyclone Sidr.

As you journey southward, men from the modern workforce are slowly replaced by chickens, farmers and veiled women. It feels like an adventure in the Wizard of Oz where at the end of your journey you’ll discover romance as you stroll hand-in hand along an isolated beach. But like the movie the romance must be inside because other local tourists are seizing the opportunity to watch the glistening light of a waking and setting sun play upon the ocean.

Locally known as Sagar Kannya (Daughter of the Sea), the long strip of dark, marbled sand stretches for about 30km. Although the main strip of beach is littered by deck chairs, motorbikes and touts promising adventure, we did manage a peaceful hand-in-hand walk along the warm foreshore waters.

On the eastern end of the beach is Gangamati, an evergreen mangrove forest and snippet of the original Kuakata. When the Rakhines settled in the area in 1784, Kuakata was part of the larger Sundarbans forest. The Sundarbans is now a distant one-hour by speedboat. As a mangrove forest, Gangamati, like the Sundarbans, offers some protection against tidal surges, however it too is being threatened by logging and deforestation.

The best way to reach the forest is by foot or bike along the beach, where a flock of flag flying fishing boats can be seen trawling the coast. Choosing to visit Gangamati in the late afternoon is a perfect time to watch the sun caste shadows on the abstract exposed mangrove roots.

The Rakhine community, like the forest, is becoming increasingly microscopic, although its cultural influence remains. Kuakata takes its name from the Rakhine people: as Kua means well and kata means to dig. It is said that the Rakhines dug a well when they first settled to supply drinking water. The small Buddhist community nestled within this conservative Islamic belt, offers more than just religious variance. Traditional weaving and different grades of home brewed rice wine produce a unique coastal spirit. Handicrafts are available at the Rakhine Mohila Market (Womens’), where you can buy directly from indigenous women to ensure your contribution returns to the community.

Superficially, harmony appears to be brewing between the Bangladeshis and Rakhines. A government-funded temple is currently under construction, designed to replace the original Buddhist temple that was destroyed during the 1971 cyclone. The temple will house the locally renowned 80 year-old brass-Buddha. The undercurrent however is that of developing tourism rather than cordial indigenous relations.

Less impressive aesthetically, the 21-foot Buddha, housed in a rustic temple in Misripara, is a great excuse for an adventure. We hired motorbikes and weaved our way along the dirt roads that passed paddy-fields and villages, where fuel sticks, drying rice and the occasional cow competed for space. Friendly villagers stopped to chat and pointed us in the right direction.

Spat out as you are from Dhaka’s disarray at Sadarghat, lazing on the launch for the overnight journey to Patuakhali is the way to begin your journey to Kuakata. Branded as the place ‘where the sun meets the sea,’ Kuakata is veiled by an intriguing cultural diversity. Here the ocean breeze wisps away the heaving insanity of Bangladesh’s bustling development and leaves you wishing you could stay longer.

If you go:

The best option to travel from Dhaka is the overnight launch departing daily in the evening from Sadarghat to Patuakhali. From here you board a local rickety bus to Kuakata, about three hours.

Patuakhali launches, your options are:
Sundarban Five – Mr. Mamun 01714 017 272 – Departs every other day at 18:15
Sundarban Six – Mr. Raja 01712 151 747 – Departs every other day at 18:15
(VIP Cabin is 1,500 Tk; regular cabins 600Tk).
Shaikat Two – Mr. Anwar 01920 206 813 – Departs every other day at 17:45
Shaikat One – Mr. Samsu 01710 620 742 – Departs every other day at 17:45
(Regular double cabin 600 Tk, singles 350Tk).

Other untried contacts:
955 5031, 955 1548, 955 6151 – BIWTC office numbers
711 3372 – Apparently the Barisal launch booking number. Busy every time we called.

The Sundarbans boats are slightly newer, but also more expensive.

Alternatively you can catch an overnight bus from Dhaka, although it’s debatable how much sleep you’ll get.

Recommended accommodation:

The Golden Palace: For a moderately priced hotel near the beach this is a great option. Rooms are clean and staff very helpful, they’ll even supply hot water on request. It’s a quiet place to escape, bathe in the sun and enjoy life passing by from your balcony.

10 Rooms: D w/b 500-600/ 1600 AC Triple w/b 900

Phone: 01711 441 622

Hotel Sky Palace: is Bangladeshis attempt at luxury. Although currently under construction completed rooms are bright and clean with a pleasant vista over a small lake. They also offer beach-side cottage.

31 Rooms: D w/b 800 Deluxe: 1,150 / 1800 AC /2500 VIP suite

Phone: 04428 556026 / 56027 or 01727 507 479

Tags: travel Bangladesh kuakata