Heading to Darjeeling from Dhaka? Here’s some advice:

The bus ride is REALLY long. If you can afford it, fly via Kolkata. But if you want to really see the countryside and are travelling on a budget, we recommend breaking the trip at Rangpur on the way up, otherwise your only choice is an overnight direct bus to Siliguri, which leaves you in a pretty tired state once you get there. But for Tk1,300, and the chance to be in Darjeeling within 24 hours….

Border crossing info:
Burimari/Chengrabandha (ø 07.30–17.30) This crossing, located at the very northern tip of Rajshahi Division, is used to access Siliguri, from where you can travel to Bhutan, Sikkim or Nepal. Like all the other borders, facilities here are basic. There is one unremarkable hotel at the BRTC bus office in Burimari, nothing more than a room with some beds, should you arrive late after the border has closed. Otherwise you will find some other basic and cheap options at nearby Patgram 12km away, or better yet you can stay at the well-serviced RDRS
Guesthouse in Lalmonirhat (Saptibari, Patgram Rd; Ø 0591 61378; e-mail: rdrslal@tistaonline.com; dbl/AC $$–$$$), 90km from Burimari. Crossing usually takes a couple of hours, especially if it’s early in the morning and there are a fair number of other people in the queue.

When heading into Bangladesh, get enough taka from the money exchangers on the Indian side of the border, as there is none on the Bangladeshi side, and the nearest ATM is in Rangpur, over 100km away. Unlike the other borders there doesn’t seem to be a departure tax levied on foreigners at Burimari, although if this does change it should be Tk300 like the other borders.

Here’s the bus information:
SILIGURI SHYAMOLI PARIBAHAN (departs Kamlapur Railway Station at 21.00 and transits through Gabtali Bus Station about 22.00;tel: 836 0241) Operates a nightly service to Siliguri in conjunction with the BRTC, which is the eastern gateway to Nepal, Darjeeling or Sikkim. The bus arrives at the Burimari border at about 06.00. Customs clearance takes a few more hours, and about 15 hours later you arrive in Siliguri. Tickets can be purchased from any Shyamoli Paribahan office but it’s probably easiest to meet the bus as it leaves the city from Gabtali Bus Station. There’s also a Shyamoli Paribahan office just north of Asad Gate in Mohammadpur.

For breaking the journey in Rangpur, stay here:
RDRS Guesthouse (24 rooms) Jail Rd, Dhap; tel 66492–3 ext 102; m 01713 200185; www.rdrsbangla.net. Beautiful facility in a greened out campus. Simply one of the best places to stay in all of northern Bangladesh, with excellent management & food. Rooms have hot water, TV, balcony & AC. Downstairs a library, pool table & restaurant are attached. There is also a cabinet containing handicrafts from RDRS projects. It’s not the cheapest place to stay but excellent value if you can afford it. $$$