Introduction to Dhaka
Posted on 18. Feb, 2010 by Mikey Leung in 3. Dhaka
Love it or loathe it, the capital city is an essential ingredient of the Bangladesh travel experience. As the nation’s heart and soul, the city has the best (great restaurants and extensive shopping) and the worst (prolific poverty and horrendous pollution) of everything. As much as some travelers – and even bideshi (Bangladeshi locals) – would like to pass it by, Dhaka is Bangladesh at its most raw and emotive.
History
Posted on 18. Feb, 2010 by Mikey Leung in 3. Dhaka
Dhaka’s history essentially begins in 1608 when the Mughal rulers proclaimed it as the new capital of Bengal, and thus 2008 saw a few celebrations of Dhaka’s 400th birthday. Before then, Dhaka was a functional trading port consisting of a small township served by many bazaars. It would not be until the Mughals relocated the capital from Sonargaon that the city began its expansion. The next century would see the city hosting a number of international interests with scores of Portuguese, French, English and Dutch merchants visiting Dhaka’s trading ports, where a finewoven cotton known as muslin was produced for export and famed internationally for its quality, showing up on the tailoring tables of Europe. These early economic successes prepared the city to one day become the future capital of East Pakistan and eventually Bangladesh.
Getting There and Away
Posted on 18. Feb, 2010 by Mikey Leung in 3. Dhaka
Zia International Airport lies about 8km from the main embassy and commercial districts of Gulshan, Banani and Baridhara, and about twice that distance to Old Dhaka. At the time of research, the facility was getting a serious facelift, all of it funded by Bangladesh’s major mobile-phone operators. Nevertheless, the moment you step out of the air-conditioned terminal building for the first time, you’ll still be greeted with the shocking site of hundreds of people looking at you through a guarded security cage – welcome to your first sight of ‘the real Bangladesh’.
Getting Around
Posted on 18. Feb, 2010 by Mikey Leung in 3. Dhaka
Overall, Dhaka is not a big city. But often what started as a 20-minute outward journey can turn into a two-hour return route. The terrible congestion suffered along the city’s key arteries means that it is effectively quite hard to plan ahead. It is best to leave at least an extra hour for any cross-city journeys.
Tourist Information
Posted on 18. Feb, 2010 by Mikey Leung in 3. Dhaka
Bangladesh’s national tourism organisation is called the Bangladesh Parjatan Corporation, or Parjatan, meaning tourism, for short. The organisation was largely ineffective and its materials well out of date, and so travellers might find the services of a tour operator (see listings below) more efficient and helpful in the search for information and guidance while considering a journey to Bangladesh.
Where to Stay
Posted on 18. Feb, 2010 by Mikey Leung in 3. Dhaka
Accommodation in the capital ranges from real budget accommodation to five-star services. The decision of where to stay depends on what you’re doing in Dhaka. If it’s business, and your contacts are in the Gulshan/Banani area, there are a lot of choices and some good deals to be had if you shop around. However, if you’re doing anything finance-related you might be heading to Motijheel frequently, which can make for a hectic city crossing both in the morning and on the way back. Budget travellers will find more options in the Motijheel area as well. Backpackers and adventurers should check out www.couchsurfing.com – a unique online project whereby members offer other members their couches/spare rooms or floors to crash on. Membership in the system is on a trust basis, and given the nature of Bangladeshi hospitality, this is a great way to find a free place to stay and have a local show you around at the same time.
Where to Eat
Posted on 18. Feb, 2010 by Mikey Leung in 3. Dhaka
What follows is comprehensive coverage of Dhaka’s upmarket eating options. Not all the options serve the dishes authentically and every menu has weaker and stronger choices. Just because a restaurant has higher prices doesn’t always make the food more delicious, as there remains a sort of prestige associated with eating out in a fancy Dhaka restaurant. Nevertheless, there are some real standouts, and even a few places that manage to keep you coming back again and again, because of the great value and taste that they offer. These restaurants are recommended below.
Shopping
Posted on 18. Feb, 2010 by Mikey Leung in 3. Dhaka
Bangladesh’s burgeoning middle class means there is now more shopping choice than ever before, especially in Dhaka’s main shopping areas. By far and away the most visible of these shops are the boutiques scattered around the city’s main shopping districts. These break down into three areas. The shops of Gulshan/Banani carry the highest-quality items but also at the highest prices. Dhanmondi has another concentration of upmarket shops but with more accessible prices. Finally, the city’s street markets carry plenty of overruns from the garment factories sold at rock-bottom prices.
Other Practicalities
Posted on 18. Feb, 2010 by Mikey Leung in 3. Dhaka
HSBC, Standard Chartered Bank and DBBL have ATMs scattered around the city, but especially in the city’s business areas (Motijheel and Gulshan). See the relevant maps for the locations. You’ll also find a plethora of money-changing services in Gulshan, especially around the Gulshan 1 or Gulshan 2 circles.
What to see
Posted on 18. Feb, 2010 by Mikey Leung in 3. Dhaka
Puran Dhaka (Old Dhaka):The highlight of any visit to Dhaka is to take in a serving of the pulsing vibrancy and extraordinary atmosphere of Puran Dhaka (Old Dhaka). With its winding alleyways and frenetic buzzing energy, there is something to see around every corner and a walk here proves to be quite the photographer’s delight. In order to get the most out of the experience, the services of the architects-turned-tour guides of the Urban Study Group are highly recommended (2/F, Hse 29, Rd 1, Dhanmondi; tel: 861 7854; mob: 01819 248408. Walks cost Tk500 per person). Below are some of the key sights.
Day Trips From Dhaka
Posted on 18. Feb, 2010 by Mikey Leung in 3. Dhaka
Armed with a sense of adventure and a sincere desire to see the heart and soul of Bangladesh lying just beyond the city borders, there are plenty of day-trip options in and around Dhaka. Listed below are a few suggestions that only require a one day trip, although a few accommodation options are listed below for those seeking an overnight escape. Otherwise, you can check out Chapter 4, Dhaka Division, for more information.
Entertainment and Nightlife
Posted on 16. Feb, 2010 by Mikey Leung in 3. Dhaka
Entertainment options are rather poorly advertised in Dhaka despite the fact there is an absolute plethora of events to attend. Newspapers, the ideal source for such events, tend to provide coverage only after the event has happened. A starting point is to ask your colleagues or Bangladeshi friends what events are going on in the city as the most interesting events tend only to be spread by word of mouth. Otherwise you could try browsing www.somewhereindhaka.net to see if they have anything that takes your fancy.
Practical Information Chapter on sale now!
Posted on 07. Feb, 2010 by Mikey Leung in 2. Practical Information
Are you getting ready to go to Bangladesh? Then the “Practical Information” chapter is what you need to get ready.
When to Visit
Posted on 29. Dec, 2009 by Mikey Leung in 2. Practical Information
If you benefit from being able to choose exactly when to visit Bangladesh, then go in November or December, when the humid and heavy heat of summer finally begins to ebb away. The skies are blue, the air is clear and the sunsets spectacular, although the clear skies mean that you won’t see those dramatic monsoon clouds splayed across the landscape.
Highlights (Free to registered members!)
Posted on 29. Dec, 2009 by Mikey Leung in 2. Practical Information, Free Travel Tips
Bangladesh rarely makes any ‘top ten’ lists worldwide, but an often asked question comes more along the following lines: ‘Since I’m in Bangladesh, what are the top ten things I should see?’ Here’s a suggestion list to get you started.
Suggested Itineraries
Posted on 29. Dec, 2009 by Mikey Leung in 2. Practical Information
With three days, take your first day exploring Old Dhaka, experiencing the frenetic
energy offered by the historic capital. The second day can be spent doing a day trip
out of the city: Savar or Sonargaon would be good, although a boat trip would be
best – contact one of the local tour operators to see if you can join a trip that’s already been arranged. Finally, spend your last day like a Dhaka urbanite by checking out some of Bangladesh’s many handicrafts or textile shops, some of which do business under free-trade banners.
Tourist Information and Tour Operators (Free!)
Posted on 29. Dec, 2009 by Mikey Leung in 2. Practical Information, Free Travel Tips
Travellers might find the services of a tour operator more efficient and helpful in the search for information and guidance while considering a journey to Bangladesh.
Red Tape, Visas, Work Permits, India Visas
Posted on 29. Dec, 2009 by Mikey Leung in 2. Practical Information
All foreign visitors to Bangladesh require a visa. To be frank, getting a Bangladesh visa can be a pain in the backside, so let this process be your first lesson in the patience you will inevitably cultivate during your stay in Bangladesh.
Embassies and High Commissions (Free!)
Posted on 29. Dec, 2009 by Mikey Leung in 2. Practical Information, Free Travel Tips
What follows is a list of the all the foreign Embassies and High Commissions in Dhaka, as well as a list of all high commissions/embassies of Bangladesh abroad. We would appreciate notice if this list has changed.
Getting There and Away Overland
Posted on 29. Dec, 2009 by Mikey Leung in 2. Practical Information
Bangladesh is almost wholly surrounded by India and while there has been talk over the years of a road connecting the region to China via Myanmar, no political will has yet to materialise on this front.
Getting There and Away by Air
Posted on 29. Dec, 2009 by Mikey Leung in 2. Practical Information
Need to figure out the best way to get to/from Bangladesh? Here’s a conclusive list of all the options for getting in and out, including how to drive an Indian-registered motorcycle into the country. Also included is information on border crossings.
Health: Preparing for Bangladesh
Posted on 29. Dec, 2009 by Mikey Leung in 2. Practical Information
People new to exotic travel often worry about tropical diseases, but it is accidents that are most likely to carry you off. Road accidents are very common in Bangladesh so be aware and do what you can to reduce risks: try to travel during daylight hours, always wear a seatbelt and refuse to be driven by anyone who has been drinking.
Health: Malaria Prevention
Posted on 29. Dec, 2009 by Mikey Leung in 2. Practical Information
The Anopheles mosquito that transmits the parasite is most commonly found in the Chittagong Hill Tracts region of Bangladesh. All other regions of the country are considered low-risk malaria areas, and there is no malaria in Dhaka.
Health: Medical Facilities in Bangladesh & Abroad (Free!)
Posted on 29. Dec, 2009 by Mikey Leung in 2. Practical Information
Dhaka is the only place where somewhat decent medical facilities exist, but major procedures such as childbirth or surgery should definitely be undertaken abroad. Many expatriates head to Thailand for their regular medical treatments and more intensive diagnostic procedures.
Health: Miscellaneous Medical Problems
Posted on 29. Dec, 2009 by Mikey Leung in 2. Practical Information
Are you concerned about the more mundane medical issues you might face in Bangladesh? Then the following 10-page description of the potential problems you might face during a stay in Bangladesh.
Safety and Security, Road Advice, Disabled Travellers
Posted on 29. Dec, 2009 by Mikey Leung in 2. Practical Information
Bangladesh’s security situation can be viewed from two perspectives. If you’re at all an adventurous person who likes the unexplored and unknown, then Bangladesh can be a perfectly safe place to travel when taking local advice, and even female travellers have braved the country solo.
Women Travellers, Travelling with Children
Posted on 29. Dec, 2009 by Mikey Leung in 2. Practical Information
It is an unfortunate reality that women need to be far more conscious and vigilant over their safety and surroundings whilst travelling in Bangladesh, because of cultural norms that people hold in the country.
What To Take
Posted on 29. Dec, 2009 by Mikey Leung in 2. Practical Information
The great majority of travellers to Bangladesh, including expatriates, will find almost everything they need on the ground. Naturally, this doesn’t include luxury food items such as alcohol, chocolate or fine coffees, but for just about everything else there is a local equivalent that will allow you to experience some of the local culture at the same time. On second thoughts, there is local alcohol, but as you’d expect from a non-alcoholic nation it’s often of poor quality.
Money Matters
Posted on 29. Dec, 2009 by Mikey Leung in 2. Practical Information
For most travellers, money withdrawn via bank debit card is the easiest and most convenient way to get cash, as there are now ATMs in almost every major city of Bangladesh (this includes all the divisional capitals and most of the third-tier cities listed in this guide but not all, so do check ahead as there are some notable exceptions among the tourist destinations, like the Chittagong Hill Tracts).
Getting Around: By River
Posted on 29. Dec, 2009 by Mikey Leung in 2. Practical Information
Compared with all other forms of transport, river journeys are the most ‘Bangladeshi’ way to travel, a type of journey you really can’t experience anywhere else. Given the fact that the country lies at the mouth of the Ganges–Brahmaputra river basin, the world’s largest delta, any journey to Bangladesh should include time spent on the water, whether that be a multi-day excursion to Sundarban, a cross-country journey on the Rocket paddlesteamer or a day outside Dhaka on the Sitalakhaya.
