The Bangladesh Traveller » Chapters

Introduction to Dhaka

Mikey Leung — Thu, 18 Feb 2010 03:50:18 +0000

Telephone code 02

Love it or loathe it, the capital city is an essential ingredient of the Bangladesh travel experience. As the nation’s heart and soul, the city has the best (great restaurants and extensive shopping) and the worst (prolific poverty and horrendous pollution) of everything. As much as some travelers – and even bideshi (Bangladeshi locals) – would like to pass it by, Dhaka is Bangladesh at its most raw and emotive.

Days begin with the morning ahsan, which, depending on how close you are to a mosque, may wake you well before dawn. Despite the early prayer call, most of the city’s 12 million people stay in bed and even like to sleep in late. So, if you’re touring Old Dhaka, moving before 08.00 is wisest (and coolest, temperature-wise, if it’s a humid summer day in the capital). The morning is a great time to walk in a park, find a favorite tea stall and enjoy what is the most peaceful hour in Dhaka. Post-08.30, the city streets become an intense mosh pit of activity and they are not for the timid. Thundering buses, colorful rickshaws, smoking, tempos and even horse-drawn carts vie for every inch of available asphalt, which makes getting around the city a nerve-rattling and toxic experience (never schedule too much in a day as the traffic tends to ooze, especially in the afternoon, plus take plenty of tea stops and you’ll find it flows much more smoothly).

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History

Mikey Leung — Thu, 18 Feb 2010 03:45:45 +0000

Dhaka’s history essentially begins in 1608 when the Mughal rulers proclaimed it as the new capital of Bengal, and thus 2008 saw a few celebrations of Dhaka’s 400th birthday. Before then, Dhaka was a functional trading port consisting of a small township served by many bazaars. It would not be until the Mughals relocated the capital from Sonargaon that the city began its expansion. The next century would see the city hosting a number of international interests with scores of Portuguese, French, English and Dutch merchants visiting Dhaka’s trading ports, where a finewoven cotton known as muslin was produced for export and famed internationally for its quality, showing up on the tailoring tables of Europe. These early economic successes prepared the city to one day become the future capital of East Pakistan and eventually Bangladesh.

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Getting There and Away

Mikey Leung — Thu, 18 Feb 2010 03:40:19 +0000

For information on international destinations/arrivals, see Chapter 2, Getting there and away , pages 000-000.

By Air

Zia International Airport lies about 8km from the main embassy and commercial districts of Gulshan, Banani and Baridhara, and about twice that distance to Old Dhaka. At the time of research, the facility was getting a serious facelift, all of it funded by Bangladesh’s major mobile-phone operators. Nevertheless, the moment you step out of the air-conditioned terminal building for the first time, you’ll still be greeted with the shocking site of hundreds of people looking at you through a guarded security cage – welcome to your first sight of ‘the real Bangladesh’.

The airport has a smaller domestic wing and a larger international one, with departures going upstairs, and new arrivals being greeted with a rather striking security cage downstairs. For a Tk200 entry fee, family and friends can wait inside the immediate arrivals area (ticket booths are on either entrance of the security cage). The international departure terminal features free internet terminals with spotty broadband service and an internet café where you can hook up your laptop, plus the Omni bookstore. Most of the restaurants are either terrible or overpriced, but at least you can snack on something to kill time. There is a currency-exchange service plus a Dutch-Bangla Banking Ltd (DBBL) ATM available in the international arrivals area, but do be warned that local taxi drivers often claim they have no bantey (small change) for Tk500 notes. Ask for small change at the exchangers.

Airport transfers

If you are being met by hosts, you should wait on the inside of the security cage as outside vehicles can be driven in to load your luggage and trolleys can’t leave the caged area. If arriving independently, leave the caged area and taxi drivers will find you well before you locate them. Fares vary considerably depending on the vehicle and your haggling skills/patience. It is best to see the vehicle first and then settle on a price. Judge by the number of other taxis waiting around and if they are numerous, then it should be easy to get a decent price. A pre-arranged transfer is recommended if arriving late at night, and most mid-range guesthouses do arrange this, with many even including it in their room rates. Otherwise you could try the airport pickup service of Hertz Rent-A-Car (tel: 988 3411; e-mail: info@ipsslgroup.com; www.ispplgroup.com), which will set you back Tk1,000 for the Gulshan/Banani/Baridhara areas. There is also a ‘meet and greet’ service being offered by UK-based tour operator Tiger Trails (Hse 7, Rd 19/A, Sec 4, Uttara; tel: 893 1108, 892 3795; mobile: 01713 067848; e-mail: info@thetigertrail.com; www.thetigertrail.com) that can arrange to assist newly arrived guests, for a Tk200 service fee. Most other tour operators will offer an airport transfer for Tk1,000 and up (for further details, see Chapter 2, Tour operators, page 000).

Taxi fares to Gulshan/Banani should cost no more than Tk150, and if you really feel like saving money, find a green baby taxi (known locally as CNGs) whose driver is willing to use the meter. This should cost around Tk80–100 for Gulshan/Banani. If you want the best prices possible, walk out from the terminal towards Airport Road, where there are regular public buses and baby taxis departing from the neighbouring train station for slightly lower fares.

Conversely, fares to the airport depend on the taxi’s quality. Yellow Navana (tel: 955 8065) taxis are the most expensive, and everything else can and should be judged by its cover (ie: the more battered-looking the vehicle is, the lower the price). When departing past midnight, it is best to hire a private vehicle whenever possible as finding a taxi on Dhaka’s deserted streets can be difficult and perhaps dangerous.

Regular domestic flights travel to Chittagong (Tk5,495, including taxes), Sylhet (Tk5,395), Jessore (Tk4,895), Barisal (Tk4,495), Cox’s Bazaar (Tk7,495) and some – times Saidpur (Tk5,495). Tickets can be purchased on arrival at the airport but if it’s anywhere near Bangladesh’s holiday seasons you’re better off booking first. Schedules for domestic flights change according to the winter/summer seasons so do check.

Airlines

Biman Bangladesh Biman Bhaban, 100 Motijheel C/A; tel: 955 3206, 716 8829; tel: 955 4783; www.bimanair.com. Sometimes offers high-season flights to Chittagong & Cox’s Bazaar.
Royal Bengal Airlines Hse 56C, Rd 132, Gulshan 1; tel: 988 2211; www.royalbengalairline.com. Flying to Chittagong & Cox’s Bazaar at the time of research, although they were expected to expand domestic operations.
GMG Airlines Banani: ABC Hse (Ground Fl), 8 Kamal Ataturk Av, Banani; tel: 886 0935; Motijheel: Suite 1303, Senakalayan Bhaban, 195 Motijheel C/A; tel: 711 4155–7; Sonargaon Hotel: 107 Kazi Nazrul Av; tel: 812 7372; Airport: tel: 896 0404, 891 5699, 891 7221, 812 7742; www.gmgairlines.com. The oldest private operator.
United Airways Corporate Office: 5th Fl, Uttara Tower, 1 Jasimuddin Av, Uttara; tel: 893 2338, 893 1712; f 893 2339; Airport Domestic Terminal; tel: 895 7640, 896 3191; m 01713 486660; Gulshan: Shop 219–221, Taher Tower, Gulshan 2 Circle; tel: 885 4769, 885 4697, 886 1935; m 01713 486659; Kawran Bazaar: Shop 3, Level 2, Unique Trade Centre, 8 Pantha Path; tel: 913 8238, 815 8046; m 01713 486658; Paltan: Oriental Trade Centre, 2nd Fl, 69/1 Purana Paltan Line; tel: 935 2647, 935 2648; m 01713 486657; e-mail: info@uabdl.com; www.uabdl.com. Offers the most comprehensive domestic service for now. Let’s see if they can keep it going.

By charter flight

You have two options if you want to charter a flight: helicopter or seaplane. Aero Technologies (Hse 347, Ln 5, DOHS Baridhara; tel: 882 9525, 986 3035; mobile: 01711 520359) offers a charter helicopter service, costing Tk140,000 or US$2,000 per hour.

In a country that is over 50% flooded during the monsoon season, it makes sense to take a seaplane if you want to reach destinations as quickly as possible. Mission Aviation Fellowship Bangladesh (Hse 299, Ln 4, DOHS Baridhara; tel: 881 0164; f 881 0165; emergency m: 01711 533333; e-mail: bd-bookings@maf.org; www.mafbangladesh.org) provides just that service. Chartered departures are said to cost at least Tk90,000 or US$1,200 per hour, but these prices could vary depending on destination.

By Train

Bangladesh’s aging railway system remains quite comprehensive, with journeys proving scenic and relaxing compared with the bat-out-of-hell buses careening over the country’s highways. The Bangladesh Railway website (www.railway.gov.bd) used to be easy to browse, although it’s now suffering from a lack of upkeep. You can look up departure and arrival times by city.

Trains depart from two locations in Dhaka because there is a different gauge system in place. All trains to destinations east of the Jamuna River depart from Kamlapur Station via the Airport Railway Station. All trains to destinations west of the Jamuna depart from the Dhaka Cantonment Railway Station.

The easiest way to catch eastbound trains is to look up your destination first and then catch the train from the Airport Railway Station (see above for airport transfer information). Head to the airport but instead of turning left at the airport crossing, you’ll see the train station less than 100m further ahead on the right, marked by a pedestrian overpass. Departure times listed below are from Kamlapur Station, but all trains pass by the Airport Railway Station anywhere between 20 and 45 minutes after the times listed below.

For westbound trains, head to the slightly closer Dhaka Cantonment Railway Station [000 00], which is just north of Baridhara DOHS residential area, about a 20-minute ride from Gulshan 2 when the traffic is good.

Seat tickets for short-haul journeys can be purchased on arrival, but berth tickets should be booked in advance. It can be quite difficult to get first-class air conditioned tickets as these are often reserved for travelling government officials until the very last day. For a service fee, tour operators can purchase tickets for you and take the hassle out of your journey. Otherwise you can go to one of the train stations first to pick up your ticket – Kamlapur, Banani Train Station and the Airport Railway Station all sell tickets for journeys from Dhaka. Kolkata tickets must be purchased from a special window at the Kamlapur Railway Station, even though the train departs from the Dhaka Cantonment Station.

Robberies have occurred at train stations. Two French travellers were mugged when they were taken to a private station waiting room and drugged when they were given drinks. They later woke up with all their valuables stolen. It is best to politely decline food or drink from strangers at the station unless you see it being prepared yourself.

The box on page 000 gives the train schedules, which may be subject to change. Do note that some of these trains have off days, where they do not run. Mail trains are slightly slower, but that doesn’t make much difference if it’s an overnight train, and usually have sleeper cars attached.

Rail Time Tables

Express trains for the eastern cities (From kamalpur rialway station: Add 20 minutes if departing from the airport railway station)

No

Destination

Train Name

Off Day

Dep Time

Arr Time

702

Chittagong

Subarna Express

Friday

16.20

22.40

704

Chittagong

Mahanagar Provati

None

07.40

14.45

722

Chittagong

Mahanagar Godhuli

Sunday

15.00

22.20

742

Chittagong

Turna Express

None

23.00

06.50

709

Sylhet

Parabat Express

Tuesday

06.40

13.15

717

Sylhet

Joyantika Express

None

14.00

21.00

739

Sylhet

Upaban Express

Wednesday

22.00

05.15

705

Dinajpur

Ekota Express

Tuesday

09.30

18.50

757

Dinajpur
Drutazan Express
Wednesday

19.50

05.10

751

Lalmonirhat

Lalmoni Express

Friday

21.30

07.20

712

Noakhali

Upakul Express

Wednesday

07.00

13.20

745

Mymensingh*

Jamuna Express

None

16.50

20.10

735

Mymensingh*

Aghnibina Express

None

09.50

12.40

*indicates that this is not the final destination of the train, just the major junction.

Mail Trains from Dhaka (Kamalpur Railway Station)

No

Destination

Train Name

Off Day

Dep Time

Arr Time

2

Chittagong

Chittagong Mail

None

22.30

07.35

4

Chittagong

Karnaphuli Express

None

08.00

19.30

9

Sylhet

Surma Mail

None

21.00

08.10

12

Noakhali

Noakhali Express

None

20.10

05.0

49 Mymensingh Balaka Express None 10.30 14.30

Departing from Dhaka (Cantonment Railway Station)

No

Destination

Train Name

Off Day

Dep Time

Arr Time

726 Khulna Sundarban Provati Thursday 06.30 17.00

764 Khulna Sundarban Nishitha Monday 19.20 05.55

753 Rajshahi Silk City Express Sunday 15.00 20.50

759 Rajshahi Padma Express Tuesday 23.45 05.35

GETTING TO INDIA

Siliguri Shyamoli Paribahan

(departs Kamlapur Railway Station at 21.00 and transits through Gabtali Bus Station about 22.00;tel: 836 0241) Operates a nightly service to Siliguri in conjunction with the BRTC, which is the eastern gateway to Nepal, Darjeeling or Sikkim. The bus arrives at the Burimari border at about 06.00. Customs clearance takes a few more hours, and about 15 hours later you arrive in Siliguri. Tickets can be purchased from any Shyamoli Paribahan office but it’s probably easiest to meet the bus as it leaves the city from Gabtali Bus Station. There’s also a Shyamoli Paribahan office just north of Asad Gate in Mohammadpur.

Kolkata Shyamoli

(departs Kamlapur Railway Station;tel: 933 3803) Also operates a service similar to its Siliguri trip, bound for Kolkata. Advance ticket purchase is recommended but not required. You can also use Green Line, Shohagh or Soudia S Alam services. The latter companies require you to switch buses after crossing the border at Benapol. The journey takes 11–12 hours, 3 of which are spent tussling with customs at both sides of the border, but it’s a cheap way to go. Purchase your ticket at the Kalabagan bus counters at Russell Square in Dhanmondi.

Agartala

This border is the closest destination for long-term expats who reside in the odd situation of having year-long visas, but maximum stays of three or six months. If you need to exit and re-enter the country this is the easiest place to go and the round trip only requires a day. You can catch any eastbound train (the Upakul Express headed for Noakhali is recommended; it departs from Kamlapur at 07.00, and arrives in Akhaura at 09.30). You’ll also need to stop off and pay a Tk300 departure tax at Akhaura before the border formalities. After a few hours of exploring Agartala, you can catch the Upakul Express as it returns to Dhaka at 17.40 from Akhaura.

For the Maitree Express service connecting Dhaka and Kolkata by train, see Chapter 2, Getting there and away, page 000.

By Bus

Dhaka has several bus stands and companies spread around the city. Which bus station and which company you choose depends on where you want to go.

For travellers heading to the major cities (Khulna, Jessore, Rajshahi, Bogra, Rangpur, Sylhet, Chittagong and Cox’s Bazaar), the most convenient option is to head to Kalabagan on Pantha Path and take your pick of the several coach companies that have offices here (unless you happen to be staying closer to Old Dhaka, in which case you’ll want to go to Arambag near the Kamlapur Railway Station). The company will then shuttle you to their main bus station or the bus will pass by Kalabagan on its way out of town.

Travellers heading to smaller cities need to choose from the three main bus stations: Gabtali and Kallyanpur bus stations for destinations northwest and southwest CNB the names Gabtali and Kallyanpur are used interchangeably, Mohakhali for cities in Dhaka Division or Sayedabad for anything heading south (eg: Barisal), southeast (Chittagong) or northeast (Srimongol). One exception is if you’re heading to Sonargaon or Comilla – this bus departs from the Gulistan bus stand. The choice of vehicle for these cities is often a little less enticing, and if your destination is on a major route to somewhere else, it is advisable to try to take an air-conditioned coach if you can, simply because the drivers are safer.

Luxury air-conditioned bus services usually cost between Tk500 and Tk1,000, depending on where you’re headed. Otherwise, non air-conditioned bus services to the more remote cities and towns usually stay under Tk500. You can call the counters listed below and shop around, although because competition is stiff there won’t be much difference between companies.

For places more off the beaten track, read the relevant Getting there and away information to figure out which bus is best for where you’re headed.

By Launch Boat

One of Dhaka’s great pleasures is to cruise away from the city on a launch in the fading hues of a Sadarghat sunset. In a country of rivers, launch travel is the way in this unique feature of the Bangladeshi landscape. Every evening, up to a dozen launch vessels, some easily four decks high, depart from the boat terminal for the south’s major cities. The journeys can be long, but that’s really quite the point of the adventure. There’s very little to do other than read a book in the evening and wake up at your destination the next morning. Power is available so laptops can also be used, but do bring a plug adaptor.

For the ordinary traveller, your key destinations are Patuakhali (for its proximity to the beach at Kuakata), Khulna or Mongla via the Rocket (as a logical launching point for ventures into the Sundarbans – see below) and Barisal (as a base from which to experience one of the hundreds of islands and chars of Bangladesh’s south, most of which will be disappearing in the sea-level-rising scenario). Bhola might also prove to be an interesting destination, although the island is absolutely massive to cross from one end to the other. Unless it’s holiday season in Bangladesh, arriving by 17.00 should allow enough time to locate the necessary launch and a cabin for the evening. For extra certainty, it may be best to book the ticket ahead of time – call the following booking numbers on the day of departure to reserve a cabin and confirm its price. Asking a Bengali speaker to help you book is wise.

Kalabagan bus counters (aka Russell Square)

Green Line Lake Circus Rd; tel: 911 2287. Recommended for transport to main divisional cities (Khulna, Rajshahi, Sylhet) & also offers a service to Bogra, Rangpur & Natore. Also offers upper-class ‘Scania’ service to Cox’s Bazaar & Chittagong.
Neptune Russell Sq; tel: 912 3092. Good at a pinch for Chittagong & Cox’s Bazaar services, but vehicles not as top-notch as others.
Shohagh 64/3 Lake Circus Rd; tel: 812 6293. A major company but lacking English speakers.
Silk Line 64/7 Lake Circus Rd; tel: 914 3372; mob: 01713 093433; 99 Sukrabad; tel: 812 0382; mob: 01714 087564. The recommended bus company for Chittagong & Cox’s Bazaar, has a ‘Saloon’ luxury bus service with leather seats. Tickets Tk600 for Chittagong & Tk900 for Cox’s Bazaar. Saloon service extra.
Soudia S Alam 13/1 West Panthapath; mob: 01197 015632–4. Newest competitor on the scene, featuring Mercedes Benz-built buses.

Arambag, Rajarbagh and Sayedabad counters

Green Line 9/2 Outer Circular Rd, Momenbagh, Rajarbagh; tel: 833 1302–4, 835 3004–5, 934 2580; mob: 01817 043704. All Green Line buses depart from here & so check your departure time depending on where you’re catching the bus.
Silk Line 167/8 Circular Rd; tel: 710 2461, 719 1253; mob: 01714 087563, 01819 202028; 61/1-B Sayedabad; mob: 01714 087566.
Soudia S Alam 2 Baitul Aman Jame Mosque Market, Motijheel Circular Rd; mob: 01197 015636–8.

Baridhara

Green Line Nadda Counter, Pragati Sharani Rd; mob: 01912 407157. A convenient place to buy tickets for luxury bus transport out of Dhaka, but you’ll still need to get to a different location to catch the bus, based on where you’re headed. At least this ticket counter is close to Gulshan. The counter is located on the east side of Pragati Sharani, on the northeast corner of the Baridhara residential area. See the map on page 000 for the exact location as Pragati Sharani is a very long road.

Uttara

Green Line Uttara; mob: 01716 976775.
Neptune Uttara; tel: 896 0993; mob: 01712 924641.
Silk Line Hse 4, Rd 12; mob: 01716 308505, 01915 045586.

DISCOVERING BANGLADESH’S RIVERS

Journalist Christian Walsh once wrote that: ‘Leaving Dhaka is an involuntary experience. It spits you out.’ As we idled amidst the seething toxic clouds of a Dhaka traffic jam – in an open-air baby taxi, no less – it was akin to being lodged in the phlegm of the city’s toxic throat, preparing to be hawked out with projectile force.

It was Gulistan, and we were standing still. Translated as ‘fragrant garden’, the ‘stan is a necessary rite of passage to reach Sadarghat (shod-or-ghat), the city’s heaving boat terminal. Once you’ve run the gauntlet and surfeited yourself with exhaust, the reward of leaving Dhaka by launch is nothing short of bliss. It is the best way to get out in true Bangladeshi style: on the water, that is. The frothy spittle of the city simply sails away behind you, replaced with the cool air of a gentle evening cruise. Bringing a discreet celebratory beverage would not go amiss at this moment, given that glasses are always provided with your cabin.

Our destination was the southern township of Patuakhali, where we would then catch public transport to Kuakata. The south’s landscape is unique in Bangladesh: it is where the mountains literally crumble to the sea. Massive quantities of monsoonal rainwater eventually empty into the Bay of Bengal each year, bringing with them the life-giving silt and minerals of the Himalayas. This phenomenon has helped sustain Bangladesh’s massive population growth over the last few decades. Tidal flow also pushes back against this torrent, resulting in the floods that are the source of much grief for Bangladesh’s millions. Yet, despite these miseries, southern Bangladesh holds an even darker promise, one that is now becoming an issue of intense contestation.

In early 2007, climate change finally attained mass awareness and even the leaders of the world’s most polluting nations began rhetoric on the one issue that affects us all. Bangladesh was widely acknowledged to be one of the nations least responsible for climate change, yet its people would bear the worst of its impacts. And it would be here, in southern Bangladesh, where the most people would be affected. As sea levels rise, millions of people would be pushed inward by the combined forces of river erosion, land loss and fresh water scarcity. The same fateful year also saw Bangladesh mired by two bouts of flooding and pounded by a severe tropical cyclone, both of which killed thousands and left several million more even worse off.

Perhaps, that is why this region needs more attention and more focus as the ‘ground zero’ point of where climate change forces will hit the most people and in the hardest way. Perhaps that is why many more visitors will come to these regions eventually, in a bid to stave off what will likely become the greatest challenge Bangladesh has ever faced.

Barisal Booking is not required as there are often 4 departures per night to/from Barisal. The launches begin leaving around 18.00, with the last departing around 20.30. Showing up by 17.00 will guarantee you a cabin on one of the launches. Single cabins are sometimes available at Tk350, although these are harder to get and you may end up in a double cabin charging Tk600 per bed. The prices are usually fixed in this case, unless it’s the holiday season and demand is very high.
Patuakhali Has at least 2 launches per day. Sundarban Five; mob: 01714 017272; Sundarban Six; mob; 01712 151747. The preceding two boats depart on alternative days at 18.15 so one or the other will be available. VIP cabin Tk1,500; regular cabins Tk600. Shaikat One, Mr Samsu; mob: 01710 620742; Shaikat Two, Mr Anwar; mob: 01920 206813. Also departs on alternative days at 17.45, so you’ll catch one or the other launch. 11hrs either way. Regular dbl cabin Tk600, sgl Tk350.
Hatiya Island Panama; mob: 01711 349257; Tipu 5; mob: 01711 348813. 19hrs. Berth Tk600. Both launches stop over in Bhola in the morning the next day, & either launch runs on alternative days.

By Rocket

When the Rocket steamer service first commenced in 1956, the vessels may have actually ‘rocketed’ around the delta and were the fastest vessels of their time. Originally constructed in 1928, the Rocket is still ‘hammering around the Delta’, as travel writer Jack Barker put it, and fortunately only one of the six original vessels is on the bottom of the Buriganga and four remain in operation to this very day. It is Bangladesh’s most well-known journey, with its sloth-like speed actually quite a pleasure to enjoy.

There are two classes of cabin available: first class boasts air conditioning in doublebedded cabins (Tk1,190 for Khulna and Tk1,025 for Mongla) and is located at the front of the boat, where as the second-class cabins (Tk720 for Khulna) are located in the back and only offer fans. Even if you’ve purchased only a second-class ticket, the staff are normally pleased to let you sit in the front deck to enjoy the scenery going by.

Food on the boat receives mixed reviews, but if your dietary requirements aren’t too strict then you will be pleased. Standard Bengali fare is on offer, with toast and omelette available for breakfast and rice and curries available for dinner.

The (in)famous river journey can be booked ahead of time by liaising with the BIWTC office (BIWTC Bhaban, 5 Dilkusha Commercial Area, Motijheel; tel: 955 9779, 891 4771). Purchasing a ticket a few days in advance is recommended.

Otherwise if you’re based in Gulshan, Guide Tours (Hse 142, Rd 12, Blk E; tel: 988 6983, 986 2205; mob: 01711 696337) can purchase the tickets for you, and for a small service charge you don’t have to worry about getting down to the BIWTC office yourself. Assuming none of the other steamers breaks down or sinks before publication of this guidebook, departures run six times per week, but not all departures go all the way to Khulna or even Mongla, only Morrelganj. Full Khulna round trips run at 18.30 on Sundays, Mondays, Wednesdays and Thursdays from Dhaka, and depart from Khulna at 02.45 on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays. On the other days, the boats travel to Morrelganj, 90km before Khulna and 45km before Mongla. Schedules change frequently as sometimes the Rockets are parked at dock for service or they are delayed owing to winter fog (worst in December and January). Call first and confirm departures before finalising your plans. Fares for Dhaka–Khulna are Tk1,190 per berth in airconditioned first class and Tk720 for non air-conditioned second class (if you want a private berth you’ll need to pay for a full cabin at double the cost).

If travelling to Sundarban, purchase a ticket for Mongla (Tk1,025; 1st class) as you need not travel all the way to Khulna only to turn around and come back again. Ask your boat operator to have the vessel meet you in Mongla, and you’ll have less travelling time before you enter the forest.

Getting Around

Mikey Leung — Thu, 18 Feb 2010 03:35:03 +0000

Overall, Dhaka is not a big city. But often what started as a 20-minute outward journey can turn into a two-hour return route. The terrible congestion suffered along the city’s key arteries means that it is effectively quite hard to plan ahead. It is best to leave at least an extra hour for any cross-city journeys.

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Tourist Information

Mikey Leung — Thu, 18 Feb 2010 03:30:01 +0000

Bangladesh’s national tourism organisation is called the Bangladesh Parjatan Corporation, or Parjatan, meaning tourism, for short. The organisation was largely ineffective and its materials well out of date, and so travellers might find the services of a tour operator (see listings below) more efficient and helpful in the search for information and guidance while considering a journey to Bangladesh.

[private]

Tour Operators

Many of the local major tour operators are happy to provide information on what to do and how to go there, plus they can be used to purchase advance tickets for a small service fee if you cannot find the time. Below is a listing of the more established operators who actually own their own facilities and have provided services for foreign guests in the past (as opposed to domestic travellers, whose needs are very different).

Bangladesh Travel Homes Hse 13, Rd 6, Sec 1, Uttara; tel: 895 0650; mob: 0152 483800; e-mail: info@bdtravelhomes.com; www.bdtravelhomes.com. Operates a hostel in Uttara.
Classic Tours and Travels Taher Tower 2nd Flr, Suite 313, Gulshan Circle 2; tel: 988 2377; mob: 01556 360566; email: info@classictours-bd.com; www.classictours-bd.com. Srimongol specialist, as well as other tours around Bangladesh.
Delta Outdoors Flat D, 6/F, Home Town Apartments, 87 New Eskaton Rd, Bangla Motor; tel: 934 2689; mob: 01720 532059; email: outdoors.delta@gmail.com; www.delta-outdoors.com. A highly adventurous bunch of young guys who operate inbound & outbound tours on request & are very responsive to the backpacking crowd.
Discover Tourism Unicorn Plaza, 40/2 North Gulshan Av; tel: 882 8615; mob: 01715 207105; email: discover@dhaka.net; www.discover-bd.com. Also operates tours on a request basis.
Galaxy Holidays Taj Casselina, 2nd Fl, 25 Gulshan Av; tel: 988 8055, 988 3310; mob: 01713 005306; email: info.holidays@galaxybd.com; www.galaxybd.com. High-end tour operator, mostly for outbound tours.
Guide Tours Ltd Hse 142, Rd 12 Blk E, Banani; tel: 2988 6983; mob: 01711 696337; email: theguide@bangla.com; www.guidetours.com.
Green Channel Hse 11, Rd 1/A, Blk J, Banani; tel: 989 4479, 881 8557; mob: 01730 012454; email: info@greenchannelbd.com; www.greenchannelbd.orgLarge group specialist (ie: hundreds of guests, conventions, etc). Specialises in transport & logistics.
Jatrik Travels House 15B, Rd 50, Gulshan 2; tel: 2989 5362; email: jatriktravels@gmail.com; www.jatrik.com.
Operates specialised tours for university school groups, including tours of Grameen Bank & BRAC. Also features tours to Kushtia, for those interested in Baul music culture. No office address yet, call for information & they will be happy to come & meet you.
Journey Plus Suite 40/A, 1/F, Aziz Supermarket, Shahbagh; tel: 862 8577, 966 0234; mob: 01819 227901, 01720 242942; email: journey@bdcom.com, journeyplus@yahoo.com; www.journeyplus.com. Handles inbound travellersmostly from UK companies such as Explore. Also running some hotel facilities at Cox’s Bazaar & St Martin’s Island.
Kushiara Tourism Ltd Hse 40, Rd 3, Sec 13, Uttara; tel: 893 2008–9; mob: 01711 392319, 01199 076408; email: ktl@agni.com, info@touristhomebd.com; www.touristhomebd.com. Operates a guesthouse in Uttara, housed in an apt building. Fairly reasonable rates & optional 6hr or 12hr stays.
Petro Aviation Bldg 69/2, 4th Flr, Rd 7/A, Dhanmondi; tel: 912 2621; email: info@petroaviation.com; www.petroaviation.com. Offers full-service transport & guided tours throughout Bangladesh. Also offers Sundarbans trips. Despite being new entry to the tourism market, the company has an earnest desire & capacity to run professional tours.
Silver Wave Tours Ltd 3/F, Hse 5, Rd 17, Blk E, Banani; tel: 883 7697; mob: 01713 452139; email: info@silverwavetours.com; www.silverwavetours.com. Good for information & questions.
The Bengal Tours Ltd Hse 45, Rd 27, Blk A, Banani; tel: 883 4716, 885 7424; email: bengal@agni.com; www.bengaltours.com. Has boat facilities for Sundarbans tours, one of the best operators in town.
The Guide Tours Hse 142, Rd 12, Blk E, Banani; tel: 988 6983, 986 2205; mob: 01711 696337; email: theguide@bangla.net; www.guidetours.com. Bangladesh’s most established tour operator. Has a range of services & 4 boats for touring Bangladesh & the Sundarbans. Also has a resort facility in the CHT. Recommended for professional service. Has experience supporting media & film-making crews.
The Tiger Trail Hse 7, Rd 19/A, Sec 4, Uttara; tel: 893 1108, 892 3795; mob: 01713 067848; email: info@thetigertrail.com; www.thetigertrail.com. Airport ‘meet & greet’ service worth checking out.
Time Travel and Tour 121 Motijheel C/A; tel: 956 2315, 956 5427; mob: 01711 525489; email: info@timedhaka.com; www.timedhaka.com. Inbound/outbound tour operator & immigration agent, seems like a professional outfit.

Maps

Several maps of the Dhaka city area are available, but the best and most useful of the bunch is the Diggin’ Dhaka map created by Laura Bonapace. While it lacks written editorial reviews, it covers Gulshan, Banani and Dhanmondi’s numerous entertainment and shopping venues, as well as airline offices, embassies, hotels, boutiques and so much more. For general purposes, Mappa (112 Green Rd, Farmgate; tel: 811 6710, 811 7260) produces a detailed city map of Dhaka in addition to country maps. The company has also produced a few tourist guide maps to Cox’s Bazaar, Sylhet and Chittagong.

Both maps should be available at Gulshan bookstores such as Words ’n’ Pages (Hse 7, Rd 7, Gulshan 1; tel: 989 0832, 882 0417) or Folk International (Hse 19, Rd 108; tel: 988 0784). Otherwise try the mini book selections at Aranya or Jatra (60 Kamal Ataturk Av, Banani; tel: 882 6370). You can also find plenty of maps at New Market’s bookshops or ETC in Dhanmondi (Hse 275, Rd 16 (Old 27), Dhanmondi; tel: 914 0089). Otherwise you’ll see them frequently being sold in the street.

Custom maps can be produced at the Centre for Environmental and Geographic Information Services (Hse 6, Rd 23/C, Gulshan 1; tel: 882 1570, 881 7648–52; www.cegisbd.com). CEGIS is easily Bangladesh’s most professional mapping service and can consult on almost any GIS need.

[private]

Where to Stay

Mikey Leung — Thu, 18 Feb 2010 03:25:30 +0000

Accommodation in the capital ranges from real budget accommodation to five-star services. The decision of where to stay depends on what you’are doing in Dhaka. If it’s business, and your contacts are in the Gulshan/Banani area, there are a lot of choices and some good deals to be had if you shop around. However, if you’are doing anything finance-related you might be heading to Motijheel frequently, which can make for a hectic city crossing both in the morning and on the way back. Budget travellers will find more options in the Motijheel area as well. Backpackers and adventurers should check out www.couchsurfing.com – a unique online project whereby members offer other members their couches/spare rooms or floors to crash on. Membership in the system is on a trust basis, and given the nature of Bangladeshi hospitality, this is a great way to find a free place to stay and have a local show you around at the same time.

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Where to Eat

Mikey Leung — Thu, 18 Feb 2010 03:20:08 +0000

What follows is comprehensive coverage of Dhaka’s upmarket eating options. Not all the options serve the dishes authentically and every menu has weaker and stronger choices. Just because a restaurant has higher prices doesn’t always make the food more delicious, as there remains a sort of prestige associated with eating out in a fancy Dhaka restaurant. Nevertheless, there are some real standouts, and even a few places that manage to keep you coming back again and again, because of the great value and taste that they offer. These restaurants are recommended below.

If you’re on an especially tight budget, you will find hundreds of restaurants serving mounds of rice alongside a thin dal and a rather oily curry. Eating this way will cost less than US$2 per day, even in Dhaka. Thankfully, this is not the case in Old Dhaka, where some of the city’s most traditional food still lives on to this day.

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Shopping

Mikey Leung — Thu, 18 Feb 2010 03:15:32 +0000

Bangladesh’s burgeoning middle class means there is now more shopping choice than ever before, especially in Dhaka’s main shopping areas. By far and away the most visible of these shops are the boutiques scattered around the city’s main shopping districts. These break down into three areas. The shops of Gulshan/Banani carry the highest-quality items but also at the highest prices. Dhanmondi has another concentration of upmarket shops but with more accessible prices. Finally, the city’s street markets carry plenty of overruns from the garment factories sold at rock-bottom prices.

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Other Practicalities

Mikey Leung — Thu, 18 Feb 2010 03:10:37 +0000

Banks

HSBC, Standard Chartered Bank and DBBL have ATMs scattered around the city, but especially in the city’s business areas (Motijheel and Gulshan). See the relevant maps for the locations. You’ll also find a plethora of money-changing services in Gulshan, especially around the Gulshan 1 or Gulshan 2 circles.

HSBC Gulshan Hse SWG-2, Gulshan Ave; tel: 9553053-6; time: 10.00–15.00. Can exchange travellers’ cheques, bring your passport. ATMs are at other locations (Westin Dhaka: Hse 1, Rd 45.Gulshan 2; Intersection of Gulshan North Avenue and Rd 92) if just needing cash withdrawal. Z
HSBC Motijheel City Centre, 103 Motijheel C/A; tel: 9553053-6; time: 10.00–15.00. Can exchange travellers’ cheques. Has ATM.
Standard Chartered Gulshan 67 Gulshan Ave; tel: 8833003–4; time: 10.00–15.00. Can exchange travellers’ cheques;bring your passport. Very busy location.
Standard Chartered Motijeel 5/A Motijheel C/A; tel: 717 4127, 716 9438; time: 10.00–15.00. Can exchange travellers’ cheques, with passport also has ATM.

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What to see

Mikey Leung — Thu, 18 Feb 2010 03:05:31 +0000

Puran Dhaka (Old Dhaka)

The highlight of any visit to Dhaka is to take in a serving of the pulsing vibrancy and extraordinary atmosphere of Puran Dhaka (Old Dhaka). With its winding alleyways and frenetic buzzing energy, there is something to see around every corner and a walk here proves to be quite the photographer’s delight. In order to get the most out of the experience, the services of the architects-turned-tour guides of the Urban Study Group are highly recommended (2/F, Hse 29, Rd 1, Dhanmondi; tel: 861 7854; mob: 01819 248408. Walks cost Tk500 per person). Below are some of the key sights.

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Day Trips From Dhaka

Mikey Leung — Thu, 18 Feb 2010 03:00:36 +0000

Armed with a sense of adventure and a sincere desire to see the heart and soul of Bangladesh lying just beyond the city borders, there are plenty of day-trip options in and around Dhaka. Listed below are a few suggestions that only require a one day trip, although a few accommodation options are listed below for those seeking an overnight escape. Otherwise, you can check out Chapter 4, Dhaka Division, for more information.

Before your departure, here are some logistical suggestions. Those with some extra cash will find it best to organise a group of friends/fellow travelers and hire a shared vehicle for the day, although this isn’t necessarily the cheapest route. Public buses are available to all of the below destinations for a fraction of the price, but you do get what you pay for: several hours of hair-raising start–stop driving that can be unbelievably dangerous in one moment and absolutely standstill in the next – quite possibly the cheapest rollercoaster you’ve ever ridden.

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Entertainment and Nightlife

Mikey Leung — Tue, 16 Feb 2010 03:20:54 +0000

Entertainment options are rather poorly advertised in Dhaka despite the fact there is an absolute plethora of events to attend. Newspapers, the ideal source for such events, tend to provide coverage only after the event has happened. A starting point is to ask your colleagues or Bangladeshi friends what events are going on in the city as the most interesting events tend only to be spread by word of mouth. Otherwise you could try browsing www.somewhereindhaka.net to see if they have anything that takes your fancy.

The international jet-set might find Dhaka to be a bit of a letdown in terms of nightlife. But the reality is that there are many local drinking venues and events happening underneath the surface, but rarely are these places advertised or discussed openly. Depending on which way the political winds are blowing you could find a full-blown nightclub having a hip-hop party one evening or a nearcomplete shutdown of all drinking venues due to a temporary ban on imported alcohol.

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Practical Information Chapter on sale now!

Mikey Leung — Sun, 07 Feb 2010 07:16:53 +0000

Are you getting ready to go to Bangladesh? Then the “Practical Information” chapter is what you need to get ready.

Once you get to Bangladesh, you’ll discover that information is hard to find. But with the information inside this preparation chapter, you’ll have everything you need to feel ready to take on the challenge of travelling to Bangladesh. More information below:

This page is the purchase page for the 2. Practical Information Chapter. The chapter contains all the information you need to cover the practical details of a journey to Bangladesh, which includes access to the following posts:

When to Visit
Highlights (Free to registered members!)
Women Travellers, Travelling with Children
Suggested Itineraries
Red Tape, Visas, Work Permits, India Visas
Health: Preparing for Bangladesh
Health: Miscellaneous Medical Problems
Health: Malaria Prevention
Getting There and Away Overland
Getting There and Away by Air
What To Take
Money Matters
Accommodation
Arts and Entertainment
Business
Eating and Drinking
Getting Around: By River
Getting Around: Private Transport (Car Hire, Taxis, Motorcycles)
Getting Around: Public Transport Options (Air, Bus, Train)
Public Holidays: National Festivals/Holidays and Minor Holidays
Public Holidays: Religious Festivals
Safety and Security, Road Advice, Disabled Travellers
Shopping
Tourist Information and Tour Operators (Free!)
Cultural Etiquette

You will get access to the entire chapter text and its associated multimedia resources.

The cost of the 2. Practical Information Chapter is 4.99 USD.

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When to Visit

Mikey Leung — Tue, 29 Dec 2009 06:00:48 +0000

If you benefit from being able to choose exactly when to visit Bangladesh, then go in November or December, when the humid and heavy heat of summer finally begins to ebb away. The skies are blue, the air is clear and the sunsets spectacular, although the clear skies mean that you won’t see those dramatic monsoon clouds splayed across the landscape. At this time Bangladesh is busy but not frantic, moods are relaxed and congenial. The temperature is most favourable for travel, and air conditioning is no longer required in the evenings.

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Highlights (Free to registered members!)

Mikey Leung — Tue, 29 Dec 2009 05:59:14 +0000

Bangladesh rarely makes any ‘top ten’ lists worldwide, but an often asked question comes more along the following lines: ‘Since I’m in Bangladesh, what are the top ten things I should see?’ Here’s a suggestion list to get you started:

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Suggested Itineraries

Mikey Leung — Tue, 29 Dec 2009 05:58:25 +0000

Three Days

Take your first day exploring Old Dhaka, experiencing the frenetic energy offered by the historic capital. The second day can be spent doing a day trip out of the city: Savar or Sonargaon would be good, although a boat trip would be best – contact one of the local tour operators (see Chapter 3, Tour operators) to see if you can join a trip that’s already been arranged. Finally, spend your last day like a Dhaka urbanite by checking out some of Bangladesh’s many handicrafts or textile shops, some of which do business under free-trade banners. See Chapter 3, Shopping, for more information. More detailed itineraries follow below.

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Tourist Information and Tour Operators (Free!)

Mikey Leung — Tue, 29 Dec 2009 05:57:05 +0000

Bangladesh’s national tourism organisation is called the Bangladesh Parjatan Corporation, or Parjatan, meaning tourism, for short. The organisation’s old Dhaka headquarters were recently demolished to make way for a road and its new address had yet to be decided. This was probably for the better as the organisation was largely ineffective and its materials well out of date, and so travellers might find the services of a tour operator more efficient and helpful in the search for information and guidance while considering a journey to Bangladesh. The following list contains all international operators who have tours to Bangladesh. For a detailed list of the local operators, please check the Tourist Information chapter of the Dhaka chapter.

Exodus UK Grange Mills, Weird Rd, London SW12 0NE; tel: +44 (0)208 675 5550; e-mail: sales@exodus.co.uk; www.exodus.co.uk. Offers a Darjeeling/Sikkim & northwest Bangladesh itineary.
Explore UK Nelson Hse, 55 victoria Rd, Farnborough Hampshire GU14 7PA; tel: +44 (0) 845 013 1537; e-mail: hello@explore.co.uk; www.explore.co.uk. Also offers a package tour covering northwest Bangladesh, Darjeeling, Sikkim and Bhutan.
Saddle Skedaddle 110 Ouseburn Bldg, Albion Row, East Quayside, Newcastle upon Tyne NE6 1LL; tel:+44 (0)191 265 1110; e-mail: info@skedaddle.co.uk; www.traidcraft-tours.co.uk. Offers specialised handicraft tours to Bangladesh with UBINIG, a Bangladeshi NGO with fantastic local knowledge.
Undiscovered Destinations Saville Exchange, Howard St, North Shields NE30 1SE; tel: +44 (0)191 296 2674, 206 4038; e-mail: info@undiscovereddestinations ; www.bangladesh-undiscovered.com. An operator with specialist knowledge of Bangladesh. The owner definitely has a special soft spot for the country.

Europe

Grace Tours Sankt Peders Stræde 28, 1453 København, Denmark; tel:+45 33 117 117; e-mail: email@gracetours.com; www.gracetours.com. Operates tours on an on-demand basis, for individual travellers. Resources are mostly in Danish, but do speak English if you call.
Thurgau Travel Rathausstrasse 5, 8570 Weinfelden, Switzerland; tel: +41 71 626 55 00; e e-mail: info@thurgautravel.ch; www.thurgautravel.ch.Specialises in private boat journeys in Bangladesh.

Usa /Canada

Asian Pacific Adventures 6065 Calvin Av, Tarzana, CA 91356, USA; tel:+1 818 881 2745, +1 800 825 1680 (inside US, toll free); e-mail: info@asianpacificadventures.com; www.asianpacificadventures.com
Experience Bangladesh Austin, TX, USA; tel: +1 512 263 0653; e-mail: contact@experiencebangladesh.com; www.experiencebangladesh.com . Unique perspective on tour operations to Bangladesh. Focuses mainly on tourism for poverty-alleviation purposes.
GAP Adventures 19 Charlotte St, Toronto ON, M5V 2H5, Canada; tel:1 800 708 7761 (in North America); Tell:+1 416 260 0999 (outside North America & UK); +1 246 426 2246 (agents outside North America & UK); +44 (0)870 999 0144 (UK); +1888 800 4100 (USA); www.gapadventures.com . Package tours to Bangladesh, includes the highlights & professional logistical management.
Remote Lands 6th Flr, 845 Third Ave, New York, NY 10022; tel: +1 646 415 8092; e-mail: info@remotelands.com. Luxury boutique operator offering specialised & highly organised individual tours to Bangladesh. All-inclusive tours generally start at US$750/day, including expert guides, drivers, internal flights, meals, hotels & activities.

Australia

Intrepid Travel 11 Spring St, Fitzroy, Victoria 3065; tel: +61 3 9473 2626, 9473 2673; e-mail: generalinfo@intrepidtravel.com; www.intrepidtravel.com . Offers packages covering the highlights of Bangladesh.

Red Tape, Visas, Work Permits, India Visas

Mikey Leung — Tue, 29 Dec 2009 05:56:14 +0000

Visas and entry requirements

All foreign visitors to Bangladesh require a visa. To be frank, getting a Bangladesh visa can be a pain in the backside, so let this process be your first lesson in the patience you will inevitably cultivate during your stay in Bangladesh. Because of a lack of information on visa regulations, procedures and the simple fact that not that many tourists or visitors come to Bangladesh (streamlined application processes are an innovation yet to be discovered in the country), you should apply for your visa as early as possible. Also note that each Bangladesh consular office applies the rules and regulations slightly differently, so if you’re ever in doubt, call the relevant office and ask for directions or check the relevant websites (none of which is particularly well organised or even functional) to get yourself as informed as possible. Now that your expectations are set appropriately low, here are some directions to help ease the process.

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Embassies and High Commissions (Free!)

Mikey Leung — Tue, 29 Dec 2009 05:55:15 +0000

What follows is a list of the all the foreign Embassies and High Commissions in Dhaka, as well as a list of all high commissions/embassies of Bangladesh abroad. We would appreciate notice if this list has changed.

The following post is free content on the Bangladesh Traveller.

[private]

Abroad

Australia 21 Culgoa Circuit, O’Malley, Canberra, ACT 2606; tel: +61 2 6290 0511, 6290 0522, 6290 0533; e-mail: bdoot.canberra@cyberone.com.au; www.bangladoot-canberra.org.
Belgium 29–31 Rue Jacques Jordaens, 1000 Brussels; tel: +32 2 640 5500; email: bdootbrussels@skynet.be, trade@bangladeshembassy.be; www.bangladeshembassy.be.
Bhutan Plt HIG-3, Upper Chubachu, Thimphu; tel: +975 2 322 539; email: bdoot@druknet.bt.
Canada Suite 302, 275 Bank St, Ottawa, ON, K2P 2L6; tel: +1 613 236 0138, 236 0139; email: info@bdhc.org, bangla@rogers.com; www.bdhc.org;
A fire at the high commission in 2008 caused the office to be shifted to a temporary location. See website for the latest.
China 42 Guang Hua Lu, Beijing 100600; tel: +86 10 6532 2521, 6532 3706; email: bdemb@public3.bta.net.cn; www.bangladeshembassy.com.cn.
France 39 rue Erlanger, 75016 Paris; tel: +33 1 46 51 90 33, 46 51 98 30; email: banglacom@free.fr, bdootpar@club-internet.fr,
hoc_par@club-internet.fr.
Germany Dovestrasse 1, 10587 Berlin; tel: +49 3039 8975–0; email: info@bangladeshembassy.de; www.bangladeshembassy.de.
Hong Kong Ste 3807, China Resources Bldg, 26 Harbour Rd, Wanchai; tel: +852 2827 4278, 2827 4279; email: bangladt@netvigator.com .
Indonesia Jalan Situbondo, No 12, Menteng, Jakarta; tel: +62 21 314 690, 310 2705.
India
- Delhi EP-39, Dr S Radha Krishna Marg, Chanakyapuri, New Delhi 110021; tel: +91 11 2412 1389–94; e-mail: highcommissionba@eth.net; www.bhcdelhi.org;
- Kolkata 9 Circus Av, Kolkata 700017; tel: +91 33 2247 5208,
  2247 5209;
- Agartala Bangladesh Visa Office, Colonel Chowmuhoni, Agartala 79901; tel: +91 381 232 4807.
Italy 14 Via Antonio Bertoloni, Rome 00197; tel: +39 6 808 3595, 807 8541.
Japan 4-15-15 Meguro, Meguro-Ku, Tokyo 153-0063; tel: +81 3 5704 0216–8; email: bdootjp@bdembjp.com; www.bdembjp.com.
Malaysia No 204-1, Jalan Ampang, 50450 Kuala Lumpur; tel: +60 3 242 3271, 242 2505.
Myanmar 56 Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd, Yangon; tel: +95 1
51174.
Nepal Maharajganj, Ring Rd, Kathmandu; tel: +977 1 414 943, 414 265.
Netherlands Wassenaarseweg 39, 2596 CG, The Hague; tel: +31 70 328 3722.
Pakistan Hse 1, St 5, F-6/3, Islamabad; tel: +92 51 2279 267; email: bdhcisb@sat.net.pk.
Singapore 91 Bencoolen St, No 06-01,Sunshine Plaza, Singapore 189652; tel: +65 6255 0075; email: bdoot@singnet.com.sg; ww.bangladesh.org.sg.
Spain 2nd Fl-D, C/Diego de Lieon-69, 28006 Madrid; tel: +34 1 401 9932, 401 7149.
Sweden Anderstorpsvägen 12 (1 Tr), 171 54 Solna, Stockholm; tel: +46 8 730 5850; email: banijya@bangladeshembassy.se.
Thailand 727 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), Bangkok 10110; tel: +66 2 392 9437–8; email: bdoot@samart.co.th; 95 Huay Kaew Rd, T Suthep, A Muang, Chiang Mai 50200; tel: +66 5 321 2373-4.
UK
- London 28 Queen’s Gate, London SW7 5JA; tel: 020 7584 0081; email: attache@bhclondon.org.uk (consular information), info@bhclondon.org.uk (general information); www.bhclondon.org.uk;
- Manchester 3rd Fl, Cedar Hse, 2 Fairfield St, Manchester M1 3GF; tel: 0161 236 4853; visas should be taken from London office.
USA
- Washington 3510, International Dr NW, Washington DC 20008; tel: +1 202 244 0183; email: bdootwash@bangladoot.org; www.bangladoot.org;
- New York Suite 502, 211 East 43rd St, New York, NY 10017; tel:
  +1 212 599 6767, 599 6850, 599 1874; email: contact@bdcgny.org; www.bdcgny.org;
- Los Angeles Suite 605, 4201 Wilshire Bd, Los Angeles, CA 90010; tel: +1 323 932-0100; email: bcgla@earthlink.net.
Vietnam 7th Fl, Daeha Business Ctr, 360 Kim Ma St, Hanoi; tel: +84 4 771 6625, 771 7829; email: bdoothn@netnam.org.vn.

In Bangladesh

Afghanistan Hse 2A, Rd 24, Gulshan 1; tel: 02 989 5994; email: afghanembassydhaka@yahoo.com.
Australia 184 Gulshan Av, Gulshan 2; tel: 02 881 3101–5; email: dima-dhaka@dfat.gov.au; www.bangladesh.embassy.gov.au
Austria Safura Tower, 5th Fl, 20 Kemal Ataturk Av, Banani; tel: 02 989 4329; email: austriancon@quasemgroup.com .
Bhutan Hse 12, Rd 107, Gulshan 2; tel: 02 882 6863, 882 7160.
Canada Hse 16A, Rd 48, Gulshan 2; tel: 02 988 7091, 988 7097; email: dhaka@international.gc.ca; www.bangladesh.gc.ca .
China Plot 2–4, Rd 3, Blk 1, Baridhara; tel: 02 882 4862, 882 4164; email: chinaemb@bdmail.net; www.bd.chineseembassy.org.
Denmark Hse 1, Rd 51, Gulshan 2; tel: 02 882 1799; email: dacamb@um.dk; www.ambdhaka.um.dk.
European Economic Commission Hse 7, Rd 84, Gulshan 2; tel: 02 882 4730; www.eudelbangladesh.org.
France Hse 18, Rd 108, Gulshan 2; tel: 02 881 3811–14; email: webmestre.daccaamba@diplomatie.gouv.fr; www.ambafrance-bd.org.
Germany 178 Gulshan Av; tel: 02 885 3521–24; email: aadhaka@optimaxbd.net; www.dhaka.diplo.de.
India
- Dhaka Hse 2, Rd 142, Gulshan 1 (the best place for locally based foreigners to line up an Indian visa); tel: 02 988 9339, 988 8789–91; email: hoc@hcidhaka.org; www.hcidhaka.org;
- Chittagong Hse 2, B-2, Rd 1, Khulshi, Chittagong; tel: 031 654148; email: ahcindia@spnetctg.com; www.ahcictg.org;
- Rajshahi Hse 284/2, Housing Estate, Sopura Uposhahar, Rajshahi; tel: 0721 774841.
Indonesia Hse 14 Rd 53, Gulshan 2; tel: 02 988 1640–41; email: indhaka@bangla.net; www.jakartadhaka.com.
Italy Hse 2/3, Rd 74/79, Gulshan 2; tel: 02 882 2781; email: ambdhaka@dominox.com.
Iraq Hse 8, Rd 59, Gulshan 2.
Japan Hse 5–7, Dutabash Rd, Baridhara; tel: 02 881 0087; email: information@embjp.accesstel.net; www.bd.emb-japan.go.jp.
Malaysia Hse 19, Rd 6, Baridhara; tel: 02 882 7759- 60; email: mwdhaka@citech-bd.com; www.kln.gov.my/perwakilan/dhaka.
Myanmar Hse 3, Rd 84, Gulshan 2; tel: 02 989 6373; email: mynembdk@siriusbroadband.com, mynembdk@siriusbb.com.
Nepal United Nations Rd, Rd 2, Baridhara; tel: 02 860 1790; email: eondhaka@dbn-bd.net.
Netherlands Hse 49, Rd 90, Gulshan 2; tel: 02 882 2715–18; email: dha@minbuza.nl; www.netherlandsembassydhaka.org.
Norway Hse 9, Rd 111, Gulshan 2; tel: 02 882 3065,881 0563; email: emb.dhaka@mfa.no; www.norway.org.bd.
Pakistan Hse 2, Rd 71, Gulshan 2; tel: 02 882 5388–9.
Singapore Hse 15, Rd 68/A, Gulshan 2; tel: 02 988 0404, 988 0337; email: singcon_dha@sgmfa.gov.sg; www.mfa.gov.sg/dhaka.
Sri Lanka Hse 15, Rd 50, Gulshan 2; tel: 02 882 2790, 881 0779.
Sweden Hse 1, Rd 51, Gulshan 2; tel: 02 883 3144–7; email: ambassaden.dhaka@sida.se; www.swedenabroad.com/dhaka.
Thailand Hse 14, Rd 11, Baridhara; tel: 01 881 2795- 6, 8813260–1; email: thaidac@mfa.go.th; www.thaidac.com.
Turkey Hse 14A, Rd 62, Gulshan 2, tel: 02 882 3536.
UK United Nations Rd, Baridhara; tel: 02 882 2705–9; email: Dhaka.Consular@fco.gov.uk; www.ukinbangladesh.fco.gov.uk.
USA Madani Av, Baridhara, tel: 02 885 5500; www.dhaka.usembassy.gov.
Vietnam Hse 7, Rd 104, Gulshan 2; tel: 02 885 4051, 885 4052; e-mail: vietnam@citech-bd.com; www.vietnamembassy-bangladesh.org.

[private]

Getting There and Away Overland

Mikey Leung — Tue, 29 Dec 2009 05:50:37 +0000

Land Routes

Bangladesh is almost wholly surrounded by India and while there has been talk over the years of a road connecting the region to China via Myanmar, no political will has yet to materialise on this front.

Major crossings into India are at Benapol/Petrapol, Burimari/Chengrabandha, Tamabil/Dawkhi and Akhuara/Agartala. They are major in the sense that they are well used by travellers and have regular transit services between Dhaka and the next major city, and also have facilities for vehicular traffic, should you be wishing to drive into Bangladesh with your own vehicle (a carnet is required; see page 000 for further details).

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No	Destination	Train Name	Off Day	Dep Time	Arr Time
702	Chittagong	Subarna Express	Friday	16.20	22.40
704	Chittagong	Mahanagar Provati	None	07.40	14.45
722	Chittagong	Mahanagar Godhuli	Sunday	15.00	22.20
742	Chittagong	Turna Express	None	23.00	06.50
709	Sylhet	Parabat Express	Tuesday	06.40	13.15
717	Sylhet	Joyantika Express	None	14.00	21.00
739	Sylhet	Upaban Express	Wednesday	22.00	05.15
705	Dinajpur	Ekota Express	Tuesday	09.30	18.50
757	Dinajpur	Drutazan Express	Wednesday	19.50	05.10
751	Lalmonirhat	Lalmoni Express	Friday	21.30	07.20
712	Noakhali	Upakul Express	Wednesday	07.00	13.20
745	Mymensingh*	Jamuna Express	None	16.50	20.10
735	Mymensingh*	Aghnibina Express	None	09.50	12.40
*indicates that this is not the final destination of the train, just the major junction.
Mail Trains from Dhaka (Kamalpur Railway Station)
No	Destination	Train Name	Off Day	Dep Time	Arr Time
2	Chittagong	Chittagong Mail	None	22.30	07.35
4	Chittagong	Karnaphuli Express	None	08.00	19.30
9	Sylhet	Surma Mail	None	21.00	08.10
12	Noakhali	Noakhali Express	None	20.10	05.0
49	Mymensingh	Balaka Express	None	10.30	14.30

Departing from Dhaka (Cantonment Railway Station)
No	Destination	Train Name	Off Day	Dep Time	Arr Time
726	Khulna	Sundarban Provati	Thursday	06.30	17.00
764	Khulna	Sundarban Nishitha	Monday	19.20	05.55
753	Rajshahi	Silk City Express	Sunday	15.00	20.50
759	Rajshahi	Padma Express	Tuesday	23.45	05.35

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