Heading to Darjeeling from Dhaka? Here’s some advice:

The bus ride is REALLY long. If you can afford it, fly via Kolkata. But if you want to really see the countryside and are travelling on a budget, we recommend breaking the trip at Rangpur on the way up, otherwise your only choice is an overnight direct bus to Siliguri, which leaves you in a pretty tired state once you get there. But for Tk1,300, and the chance to be in Darjeeling within 24 hours….

Border crossing info:
Burimari/Chengrabandha (ø 07.30–17.30) This crossing, located at the very northern tip of Rajshahi Division, is used to access Siliguri, from where you can travel to Bhutan, Sikkim or Nepal. Like all the other borders, facilities here are basic. There is one unremarkable hotel at the BRTC bus office in Burimari, nothing more than a room with some beds, should you arrive late after the border has closed. Otherwise you will find some other basic and cheap options at nearby Patgram 12km away, or better yet you can stay at the well-serviced RDRS
Guesthouse in Lalmonirhat (Saptibari, Patgram Rd; Ø 0591 61378; e-mail: rdrslal@tistaonline.com; dbl/AC $$–$$$), 90km from Burimari. Crossing usually takes a couple of hours, especially if it’s early in the morning and there are a fair number of other people in the queue.

When heading into Bangladesh, get enough taka from the money exchangers on the Indian side of the border, as there is none on the Bangladeshi side, and the nearest ATM is in Rangpur, over 100km away. Unlike the other borders there doesn’t seem to be a departure tax levied on foreigners at Burimari, although if this does change it should be Tk300 like the other borders.

Here’s the bus information:
SILIGURI SHYAMOLI PARIBAHAN (departs Kamlapur Railway Station at 21.00 and transits through Gabtali Bus Station about 22.00;tel: 836 0241) Operates a nightly service to Siliguri in conjunction with the BRTC, which is the eastern gateway to Nepal, Darjeeling or Sikkim. The bus arrives at the Burimari border at about 06.00. Customs clearance takes a few more hours, and about 15 hours later you arrive in Siliguri. Tickets can be purchased from any Shyamoli Paribahan office but it’s probably easiest to meet the bus as it leaves the city from Gabtali Bus Station. There’s also a Shyamoli Paribahan office just north of Asad Gate in Mohammadpur.

For breaking the journey in Rangpur, stay here:
RDRS Guesthouse (24 rooms) Jail Rd, Dhap; tel 66492–3 ext 102; m 01713 200185; www.rdrsbangla.net. Beautiful facility in a greened out campus. Simply one of the best places to stay in all of northern Bangladesh, with excellent management & food. Rooms have hot water, TV, balcony & AC. Downstairs a library, pool table & restaurant are attached. There is also a cabinet containing handicrafts from RDRS projects. It’s not the cheapest place to stay but excellent value if you can afford it. $$$

Stuck wondering where/what all the expatriate clubs are in Dhaka? here’s a quick list with phone numbers to get you going.

Each of the foreign clubs requires club membership, which can be something of a nuisance to pick up depending on your nationality or your connections. Otherwise, knowing a few other friendly foreigners will help you out as most members can sign in guests. Once you’re in, you purchase cash coupons to pay for your drinks. Most of the city’s social life revolves around these clubs, which many people use to ‘escape’ the reality of Bangladesh. The never-ending circuit of parties and drinks does mean you’ll often meet people who, despite
having lived in Bangladesh for several months, have yet to leave Dhaka.

• BAGHA Hse 17, Rd 44, Gulshan 2; tel: 881 4644.
• American Recreation Association Hse 13, Rd 69, Gulshan 2; tel: 882 1025.
• Canadian Recreation Club UN Rd, Baridhara (next to American Embassy); tel: 988 1208, 989 5223, 989 5139.
• German Club Hse 24, Rd 104, Gulshan 2; tel 882 7440.
• International Club Hse 5, Rd 74, Gulshan 2; tel: 988 1712.
• Nordic Club Hse 18, Rd 55, Gulshan 2; tel: 882 1331.
• The Aussie Rd 83–84, Gulshan 2; tel: 881 3105.
• Netherlands Recreation Association Hse 33, Rd 74, Gulshan 2; tel 882 3877.

Got a question you’d like to ask us? Use the contact page and we’ll get back to you.

More FAQs! We’re giving away some free tips here at Joybangla.info, especially for our most frequently asked questions. If you’d like to challenge us with your stumper of a question, e-mail it to faq@joybangla.info and if we’ve written about it, you get a free snippet of the guidebook to get you going. But you’ll need the book for all the information in one place, sorry! (aha, of course there was a catch!)

#1: Lawachara Reserve Forest, home of the Hoolock Gibbons
For exploring Lawachara, we suggest you take the services of a Nishorgo-trained eco-guide, who may not have stellar English but can certainly see more wildlife than you and indicate where to look. Especially if you want to see the gorgeous Hoolock Gibbons that inhabit the forest.

Nishorgo Eco-Guides (www.nishorgo.org) Nishorgo was a USAID-funded program that helped to develop the nature guiding skills of several locals in the Srimongol area, some of whom come from the indigenous communities around the forest. If you check the Nishorgo website you will find a list of their guides at the various Nishorgo protected sites around the country, as well as information on the protected areas and Nishorgo’s work. Each guide has suitable English, so if you want the most amount of interaction, then these young locals would be the way to go. Consider it a free Bangla lesson too. You can try Mr. Dhiraj Shing (mob: 01190 270716, Manipuri) or Mr. Benedict Daring (mob: 01723 760499, Garo), both of whom are members of Srimongol’s indigenous community. They would also be good sources of information if you wanted to know about indigenous festivals of the area or wanted to see a cultural performance of the Manipuri people.

#2: Get on your bike
For bicycles, it’s a bit difficult to source them from the eco-cottage. But if you would like bicycles, you can either look for them yourself in town or convince Razu at Classic Tours and Travels to prepare them for you in town, with his guide Sablu’s help. Bikes rent for Tk150-200 per day, depending on the quality. If you call yourself a cyclist but don’t have your own bicycle up here, do remember to give the brakes a good check before you set off — there are hills out there! Full listing follows.

Classic Tours and Travels (Dhaka: Ste 313, 2nd flr, Taher Tower, Gulshan 2, mob: 01556 360566, speak with Razu; Srimongol: Railway Station Office, mob: 01718 155492, speak with Sablu; e-mail: info@classictours-bd.com; www.classictours-bd.com) While many other tour operators offer trips to Srimongol, Classic Tours is only operator that maintains an office in Srimongol with a full-time local guide/staffer from the region. While the office itself is stuffed into the back of a tiny store, the people here do know Srimongol better than many of the other operators. Single female travellers or groups would probably benefit most from their services. They can hire bicycles, organise transport and make accommodation bookings and you will benefit from the relationship they have with the local contacts, useful when you want to see something interesting.

We’re getting a lot of questions these days as more and more people learn about our new guidebook project. So if enough questions are asked we will take the time to blog some answers.

Q: What is the best way to get to Thailand nowadays?

A: Druk Air had the cheapest return fair when I went this February, but didn’t have the best departure times (twice a week). When I buy my air tickets I usually consult a travel agent and get them to make the phone calls to check the schedules. I was quoted a return fare of Tk24,000.

Instead I took a Biman flight at Tk27,000, which was being flown by Turkey’s Pegasus Airlines, as it seems Biman doesn’t have enough cash to keep its leased airplanes flying at the moment. Probably good news for you as you know you’ll be on a properly maintained plane! Biman also has a higher frequency of flights, and could probably use your economic support of their flights. When I left my flight was virtually empty, and after asking the attractive Turkish flight stewardesses what was going on, they said that the Bangkok route is fairly empty. So, the extra taka also means you get more space and a better schedule.

Your other choice is Thai Airways, which is more expensive, often Tk33,000 or more. If you have an onward flight to other destinations that Thai Airways flies, then maybe you’d score a better ticket, but if you’re just flying to Bangkok and your dates are flexible, Biman and Druk are your best bets.

Malaysia is the cheapest — under $200 USD special is being advertised on Malaysia Airlines until tomorrow. From here you can fly to Thai destinations on Air Asia, for a combined fare that is probably still cheaper than Druk or Biman.

Q: What’s the best place to stay in Srimongol?

Definitely the Nishorgo Eco-cottages. There are two there, and one is becoming mighty popular among Dhaka visitors so you need to book ahead.

Our recommendations:

Nishorgo Nirob Eco-Cottage (3 rooms) Radhanagar, 20 minute rickshaw ride from train station; mob: 01715 041207; Nishorgo’s flagship project of creating ‘eco-cottages’ began here at this small village just a few kilometers outside of Srimongol and a 45-minute walk from the Lawachara rainforest. The concept was to employ locals to house visiting guests and provide some fo the capital necessary to build facilities for them. At the Nirob eco-cottage, there are three rooms. One is housed in a standard concrete building but the other two are bamboo huts nestled in a lemon grove tucked away at the back of the property, with a small flowing stream behind it, perfect for dipping on hot days. Needless to say, this is a secret spot that won’t remain hidden for long. Calling ahead for booking is essential. The proprietor’s wife is an excellent cook as well. The bamboo hut costs Tk1,000 per night and includes breakfast. Facilities include hot water on request, meals, and a power supply system that can run computers, chargers and lights even when the power goes out. Mr. Shamsul is the one you want to speak with. $$$

Nishorgo Nandan Eco-Cottage (2 rooms) Uttar Baligaon, Karamat Nagar; mob: 01711 731551; The second of Nishorgo’s eco-cottages, offering similar facilities but not the beautiful bamboo hut. If Nirob is already booked this would be a great choice as well. Facilities are the same: two double-bedded rooms with attached bath and basic food served (Tk1,000). Mr. Anando is the proprietor here. $$$

We invite you to submit more questions to us on the contact page if you’ve got them and we’ll post the answers here for other travellers.

Thinking about planning your 2009 holidays in Bangladesh? Then the following list might be useful:

21 Feb International Mother Language Day.
10 Mar Eid-e-Milad-un Nabi (Birth of the Prophet).
26 Mar Independence Day.
14 Apr Bangla New Year.
1 May Labour Day.
9 May Buddha Purnima.
7 Aug Shab-e Barat (Ascension of the Prophet).
13 Aug Sri Krishno Jônmashṭomi.
15 Aug Bangabandhu Assasination Day.
18 Sept Shab e-Qadr (Evening of Destiny).
21 Sep (3 days) Eid al-Fitr (End of Ramadan).
28 Sept Durga Puja (Vijaya Dasami).
28 Nov (3 days) Eid ul-Adha (Feast of the Sacrifice).
16 Dec Victory Day (Bijoy Dibosh).
25 Dec Christmas Day
7 Nov National Revolution Day.
28 Dec & 8 Jan Ashura

~story by Mikey Leung~

You’re considering a journey to Sundarban, one of the world’s most pristine wildernesses and certainly a highlight of the subcontinent. Who do you turn to for more information?

In the course of our research we’ve managed to try out a few operators—but perhaps you know others. Feel free to let us know via your comments if you’ve tried out any other companies, or who to avoid. Here’s our review:

You’ll find several local operators offering tours to Sundarban but there are very few companies who actually own the facilities necessary to facilitate a Sundarban trip, and have guides specifically designated for that purpose. Additionally, it can be much more difficult to arrange your own transport and permits to Sundarban, as they are required for all visitors, local or bideshi. Finally, we suggest that it is best to spend at least three days doing the trip, if not four.

This is because the best part of Sundarban is in the far southeast, where the biodiversity is highest and you can enjoy isolated beaches facing the Bay of Bengal, and it takes almost a full day of travel through the mangrove channels to get there. Ensure your tour includes stops at Kotka and Kochikhali—perhaps the nicest places in Sundarban for enjoying the beach and taking strolls through the forest.

For those who don’t have much time or the budget for a big trip, you can arrange your own brief trip using local boat hire from Mongla. A few other travellers have recommended Mr. Ferdous at the Hotel Pashur. Otherwise, boatmen will easily find you if you hang out around the Mongla ghat.

If you’re opting for an organised expedition, there are several Khulna-based outfits that offer trips to the Sundarbans.

• Guide Tours Offices in Khulna and Dhaka, and Bangladesh’s oldest operator to the Sundarbans. Offers different styles of travel to Sundarban (e.g. research and/or media support as well as standard tours). You can put together a group of people yourself or try and join an already scheduled departure.
  Dhaka Darpan Complex (1st floor), Plot 2, Gulshan 2, tel: 02 988-6983, 02 986-2208, 01711 696 337; fax: 02 988-6984; e-mail: theguide@bangla.net; Web: www.guidetours.com.
  Dhaka Sheraton Sheraton Hotel Lobby, 1 Minto Road, tel: 02 833-0001 ext 4451, 01711 696 331.
  Khulna KDA Building (ground floor), Khulna, tel: 041 731-384, 01711 298 000.
• Bengal Tours Another tour operator with specialized Sundarban boats.
  Dhaka House 45, Road 27, Block-A, Banani, tel: 02 883-4716, 885-7424; fax: 02 988-6381; e-mail: bengal@agni.com; web: www.bengaltours.com.
  Khulna 236 Khan Jahan Ali Road, tel: 041 724-355, 01711 275 231.
• Rupantar Eco-tourism Khulna-based startup with the ability to organise cultural performances in local villages. 8 Hazi Mohsin Road (1st floor), tel: 041-811424 or Mobile 01711 829414, 01711 841276; fax: 041-720629; e-mail: info@rupantareco-tourism.com; web: www.rupantareco-tourism.com.
• Journeys can also be organised from the Western Inn International or the Royal Hotel International.
• Have you got an operator to add? Let us know via comments on this article!

~story by Mikey Leung~

At the Guide Tours’ Hillside Resort, you awake to a stunning view of hills poking out from the clouds. See more photos of Bandarban here.

It’s absolutely outrageous to say this, but be prepared to be followed by the police where ever you go while visiting one of Bangladesh’s most attractive destinations, second only to the Sundarbans.

It happened to a group of us last week (all foreign tourists). Before we even knew it, we were being followed by three uniformed police officers carrying aging rifles. They were not aggressive or overbearing, in fact they were usually quite kind and curious like all Bangladeshis are, and they were simply doing their job. Nonetheless, we didn’t formally request their presence, but we got it whether we wanted it or not. It did sour our experience of Bandarban—I felt bad mostly for my group.

The bottom line:

We do not want to scare anyone with this article, as Bandarban is one of Bangladesh’s must-see destinations. We simply want intrepid travellers to be prepared for what they will encounter.

What the casual visitor is not initially aware of is that Bandarban is deemed an “insecure area” by the Bangladeshi government. Insurgent rebel groups are said to be operating in the remote parts of the jungle, despite the fact there was a peace treaty signed 10 years ago. Click here to read more details about the treaty.

Meanwhile there was a kidnapping last year a remote area of the CHT, and that is supposedly why tourists must now suffer with what seems like insane security precautions while visiting this highly scenic and adventurous destination.

And that is why we’d like to provide you with some suggestions when dealing with the security forces.

DO:
* Be aware of your influence on the situation, both positive and negative. You attract more attention and profile when you stay at Guide Tours’ Hillside Resort than if you stay in town. Because of an armed robbery in 2004, extra police have been stationed around the resort, permanently. Although it is safe now, the added presence means that when you want to walk around the resort to the neighbouring villages you must be accompanied by police, depending on the conspicuousness of your group (i.e. all caucasian people, or based on gender). Sometimes the accompanying police are plain-clothed, other times they are uniformed.

DO:
* Try and request a plain-clothed officer when visiting local villages, in order to minimize your impact. When visiting Hatibandha, nearby the resort, only one officer came with us. Be aware that sometimes officers are plain-clothed, for that matter! (The important one with the power is usually carrying the two-way radio.

DO:
* Practise patience and tolerance with security forces as the guys on the ground are just trying to do their jobs. If/when you must have armed, uniformed officers with you, please be patient and be prepared to subsidize their transport on your tour arrangements.

DO:
* Guide Tours’ Hillside Resort staff can usually work out your arrangements for you. If armed police must accompany you to a local village (usually handled on a case-by-case basis), ask that they wait a ways back as you must visit the village chief’s home before hospitality will be extended to you by the villagers.

DO:
* Work within the constraints specified by police. This is for your benefit and for the other travellers who follow in your footsteps. By hindering security forces from doing their jobs, you could potentially ruin access for future travellers, and decrease the opportunities for increased exposure to the situation that hill people face.

DO:
* Help us create enough support for the idea of a locally-based “tourist police,” who are specially assigned to work with tourists and the local security forces, so that our visitors can have the best experience possible in Bandarban. Charge a nominal fee under some kind of organized structure.

And here’s a video of a fantastic view:

~story by Mikey Leung~

After reading Kirsty’s recent post about her upcoming visit to Bangladesh, there is one thing that most flashpackers like herself don’t know about this “underdeveloped” nation.

Bangladesh has one of the best internet connectivity services I’ve experienced in the entire world. Although there are mixed reviews on that subject.

From my point of view, it is absolutely amazing that, using an EDGE-enabled mobile phone, one can have wireless broadband connectivity almost everywhere in Bangladesh (except for the Chittagong Hill Tracts, where people use antennas to get mobile signal for voice communications. Often it is not strong enough for data service). EDGE is the successor of GPRS, an older, slower technology for packet data transfer.

Here’s what you need:

• EDGE-enabled mobile phone (our suggestion is the Nokia 6110 for 6,500Tk or about $100 USD). You can check Grameen’s list of phones here, or browse your mobile phone vendor’s site for more information.
• Some way to connect the phone to the computer. If you own a Mac, Bluetooth works alright although there are sometimes modem errors (see this article for more information). Otherwise a PC can be connected with a USB cable, and if you use a Nokia mobile, use the PC Suite application to control the phone’s internet mobile connection.
• Grameen Post-paid SIM card. Head to a Grameenphone customer service center and bring a copy of your passport plus two passport pictures. Make sure they activate the EDGE service on the SIM card. The best part is the cost: Tk1,150 per month for unlimited browsing ($15 USD per month).

If you’re not the most technically inclined person, it is best to bring your computer to the Grameenphone customer service center along with your mobile phone. They should be able to help you to complete the connection and get you online.

There are other services available in Bangladesh, but only Grameen offers unlimited bandwidth service, so it gets our vote because we are data-hungry people!

Hands-On Disaster Response provides an even more comprehensive guide at this link (PDF, 48KB). Cheers for putting that together, HODR!!

This text originally written by Voluntary Service Overseas volunteer Heidi Eisenhauer for other volunteers. But of course it has some handy hints for those planning a long-term visits to the country.

* self powered flashlight (magnetic or pump)
* head lamp
* travelers wet/dry pants are a good idea
* men wear short sleeve shirts, pants and dress shoes to work
* foreign women may wear what they wish but a mixture of western / kameez and orna is standard
* Flip flops / open toe shoes are essential!! They are sold here but vary in quality
* hand sanitizer
* water bottle / Nalgene bottle
* Gatorade
* Good knives for cooking (if you like to cook the quality of knives in Bangladesh is questionable)
* A laptop if you have one, for watching movies – which cost about 80-100 taka ($1.10 USD)
* Good rechargeable batteries and a charger! The crappy batteries sold here don’t seem to last (most multiplugs are international)
* bring a nice squishy pillow unless you like slabs of rock..
* a backpack

FYI:
1. Almost everything is available here..
2. Some foreign things like coffee are very rare (you may want to bring a bodem).
3. Bring an unlocked phone that takes sim cards if you have one.. if not they average 3,000-20,000 taka $40-$200 here, and a regular sim costs 300 taka.
4. My beds have been 1′ mattresses on wood.. so I was happy to have my yoga mat.. would have been happier with my thermarest.. I bought a foam mattress for 3000 taka when I got settled, and thick stuffed mattresses are about 1,000 taka.
6. you may bring 23kg per bag.. and this will not be a problem for staff picking you up..

Do you have anything else you would suggest visitors bring to Bangladesh? Please give us your input..