Sonargaon and Panam Nagar: a day trip into Bengal's old capital

For centuries, Sonargaon was one of the great centres of Bengal: a seat of rulers, a mint town and a trading hub, long before Dhaka became the capital. Today it is one of the easiest heritage trips from the city, and Panam Nagar, a single street of crumbling merchant houses, is its most photographed corner.

Getting there

Sonargaon is in Narayanganj district, southeast of Dhaka. By car it takes about 1.5 to 2 hours from central Dhaka in normal traffic, less early on a Friday morning. By public transport, buses run from Gulistan towards Mograpara on the Dhaka–Chattogram highway; from Mograpara, a rickshaw or auto-rickshaw takes you to the museum.

Panam Nagar

Panam Nagar is a street lined with about 52 houses built by Hindu merchants, many in the 19th and early 20th centuries, when the area traded in cotton and textiles. The buildings mix European and traditional Bengali styles: ogee-shaped windows, cast-iron columns, stucco ornament, mosaic and chequered floors, and inner courtyards.

After Partition, and especially after the riots of 1964 and the war of 1965, most of the families left. The houses were occupied by others and fell into decline. The Department of Archaeology declared Panam Nagar a protected site in 2003, visitors have needed a ticket since 2015, and restoration work began in December 2020. Walk slowly, look up at the facades, and do not climb on or enter buildings that are fenced off; some are fragile.

Folk Arts and Crafts Foundation

A short walk from Panam Nagar, the Bangladesh Folk Arts and Crafts Foundation was founded in 1975 by the artist Zainul Abedin. Its grounds hold the folk art museum, the restored Boro Sardar Bari mansion (built in 1901), lakes and gardens. Inside, you will find nakshi kantha, pottery, woodwork, metalwork and other crafts from across the country. A folk fair is held here every year.

Opening hours (2025 listing): open Friday to Wednesday and closed on Thursdays. Summer (April to September): 10 am to 6 pm. Winter (October to March): 9 am to 5 pm. Hours are shorter during Ramadan.

Tickets (2025 listing): Tk 50 for Bangladeshi visitors and Tk 100 for foreign visitors at the Foundation, with a separate ticket for Boro Sardar Bari.

Goaldi Mosque

Less than a kilometre from Panam Nagar stands the Goaldi Mosque, built in 1519 during the reign of Sultan Alauddin Husain Shah. It is one of the few medieval buildings left in Sonargaon, and its carved black basalt mihrab and terracotta work are worth a close look. Dress modestly and avoid prayer times.

Plan your day

• Avoid Thursday, when the museum is closed.
• Start early to beat the traffic and the midday heat, especially outside winter.
• Combine the museum, Panam Nagar and Goaldi Mosque in one loop; together they make a comfortable half-day to full-day trip.

FAQ

How far is Sonargaon from Dhaka?

Sonargaon is in Narayanganj district, southeast of Dhaka. By road it usually takes about 1.5 to 2 hours from central Dhaka.

What is Panam Nagar?

A historic street in Sonargaon lined with about 52 old merchant houses built mainly in the 19th and early 20th centuries, now protected by the Department of Archaeology.

On which day is the Sonargaon museum closed?

The Folk Arts and Crafts Foundation museum is closed on Thursdays.

Who founded the Sonargaon folk art museum?

The artist Zainul Abedin founded the Bangladesh Folk Arts and Crafts Foundation in 1975.

Sources

• Sonargaon Travel Guide: Visiting Museum and other attractions in the old capital, Nijhoom Tours, updated July 2025
• Panam Nagar, Wikipedia
• Goaldi Mosque, Wikipedia